Arc’teryx Alpha AR Jacket Review – An HONEST Review

The Arc’teryx Alpha AR Jacket is the most well-rounded climbing jacket we’ve enjoyed owning. It should make sense as Arc’teryx is known for its quality, its Alpha family line is designed around climbing, and the AR version is its most versatile.

AR stands for All-Round, which is the best way to describe the design focus of this jacket. It does a commendable job of balancing performance, weight, durability, and functionality. The jacket construction material is a durable 3-layer Gore-Tex Pro, making for a jacket with excellent protection from rain, rock, and snow. It’s roomy enough to combine with insulation for easy layering.

While the jacket provides exceptional performance, it does come with two notable downfalls. The climbing-focused design of the Alpha jackets means that the breast pocket, cut, and hood are not as functional as the Zeta and Beta jacket lines. Finally, the price point of the jacket does feel prohibitive.

It does manage to deliver on its promise of protection from the elements with a design that is not restrictive for climbers. We recommend the jacket for those climbing in the mountains or wet weather environments.

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Arc’teryx Alpha AR Jacket Review

Quick Specs: Price – $599 | Weight – 12 oz. | Materials – N40D Gore-Tex Pro

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Performance of Alpha AR

In the backcountry, the jacket does exactly what it’s set out to do, protect you from the elements and keep you dry. The Alpha jacket line is made for climbers, the Beta is for mountaineers, and the Zeta is for hikers.

This is why we recommend the Zeta SL for most mountain recreational users. All of these jackets overlap and do a great job in general. That does come with a caveat, as some are more versatile than others.

Suppose you’re looking for a robust jacket as a climber, then the Alpha does an excellent job and can also be used on the trail. The Zeta pockets and cut aren’t conducive to climbing, while the only downside to the Alpha in hiking is that the breast pockets are slightly tougher to access.

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Construction and Design

The AR is the most versatile jacket in the Alpha family line and is recommended to most climbers. The SV (severe weather) and LT (lightweight) are two other jacket designs.

The primary material of the Arc’teryx Alpha AR is N40D Gore-Tex Pro. It’s a three-layer composition of a tough nylon denier, a waterproof coating, and a breathable membrane. The 40 denier nylon does a great job in weight, weather resistance, breathability, and abrasion resistance.

It feels like the sweet spot for weight, yet it remains durable, and it shows no signs of wear after plenty of time rubbing against the rock, which was Arc’teryx’s goal in the design and selection of the materials used in the jacket. Areas at risk of high wear for climbers, such as the shoulders and arms, are reinforced.

The cut and design are focused on climbing, thanks to several design features. The Storm hood is helmet-compatible with a shorter brim and integrated collar for better protection/comfort.

A shorter hemline in the front and a longer hemline in the back make for greater mobility and weather protection when wearing a harness. We find that the integration is seamless, and it fits perfectly underneath our harness.

At first look, the notable design feature is the high chest pockets located in the center of the chest, which are easy to access while climbing. They also work well with multiday or climbing packs and can still be readily accessed.

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The comfort of Alpha AR

In terms of comfort, Alpha AR provides great mobility, warmth, and breathability. The jacket is soft, flexible, and moves with you when you’re hiking to a lake or clambering up a frozen waterfall at your local climbing spot.

In addition to the already excellent breathability of the Alpha AR, Arc’teryx has added pit zips for further ventilation. Once you start working up a sweat, these give you instant airflow when and where you need it most. It’s a nice feature that feels as useful for mountaineering and hiking as for climbing. We find it most useful on low-elevation approaches where we work up to more of a sweat.

The Alpha AR also has Velcro cuff adjusters, which keep the sleeves firmly in place without becoming tight or constricting due to the Storm hood front zipper reaching past your chin when zipped up. The chin guard has a microsuede finish that stays soft and comfortable even after numerous uses and cleanings to prevent chafing. 

If you’re using the Alpha AR for ice climbing, several jacket features are for climbing comfort. The hem and hood adjusters are easy to use even when you have gloves or mittens, and the Hemlock feature on the lower hem prevents the jacket from slipping out from underneath a climbing harness. 

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The fit of Alpha AR

The Alpha AR has a regular fit and should be about hip length. The Alpha AR is true to size, so if you take measurements and follow the sizing chart, you should find the right fit.

It’s a bit shorter than some of Arc’teryx’s other jackets because the jacket was made for climbing and is designed to be compatible with a climbing harness. The Alpha AR also has a helmet-compatible hood, which is essential for climbers.

Even if you’re not using the jacket while climbing, the excellent coverage and adjustment options for the hood keep the wind out and your head nice and warm. Although, it does feel a bit roomy for general use.  

Although climbing and alpine jackets shouldn’t prioritize aesthetics, the Alpha AR still succeeds in looking pretty cool. Plus, it comes in a few different color options, so you can pick something that matches your personal style. 

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Features of Alpha AR

Sometimes, it’s the little things that make or break a jacket. Arc’teryx doesn’t leave much desired in terms of extra features, pocket placement, and functionality. The two chest pockets have pleated interiors, which helps them lie flat when not in use, but still allows for plenty of space to warm your hands if you start to get cold.

In addition to the chest pockets, there’s also a nifty internal zippered pocket. Interior pockets are always a nice feature to add, and this is the perfect spot to store small items you’d rather not leave behind when you’re out.

The material is high quality, and Arc’teryx has made sure to use excellent zippers that won’t snag or let in the cold wind. The full-front zipper has a water-tight closure, and the wind flap seals out any cold wind which might otherwise enter.

A final feature of the Alpha AR is the inclusion of a RECCO reflector in the hood brim. For potential recovery in avalanches. We wouldn’t recommend the jacket for skiing too much due to the lack of a skirt, but it certainly has warmth and weather protection.

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Protection From the Elements 

The Alpha AR was made to withstand some pretty harsh conditions. While Alpha SV offers a more robust 100D Gore-Tex, the 40D in the AR version of the jacket is no slouch. It provides excellent coverage and protection for rain, sleet, or snow.

In addition to the material being waterproof and windproof, all the exterior zippers have a WaterTight closure. Arc’teryx does note that although these zippers are water-resistant, they aren’t totally waterproof. We haven’t experienced the zipper leaking yet, even in heavy rain.

If you’ve had problems needing to replace jackets after only a season of use, upgrading to the Alpha AR is probably a worthwhile investment. We’re now moving into our third season of wear, and it shows little signs. All the truth be told, we test many jackets out, so it doesn’t see as much wear as the everyday person.

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Drawbacks of Alpha AR

There’s certainly a lot to love about the Arc’teryx Alpha AR, but there are also some potential issues you’ll want to keep in mind when deciding whether or not to purchase this jacket. First and foremost is the price. The Alpha AR is by no means a cheap or budget-friendly jacket, so you’ll want to be certain about how much you’ll be putting it to use before purchasing. 

However, remember that sometimes more expensive products, like the Alpha AR, can pay off in the long run. Instead of needing to replace a poorer quality jacket every few years, you’ll have one that lasts and remains in almost good condition for a long time. 

The main question you should ask yourself when considering getting the Alpha AR is whether or not you’ll use it enough to make the price count. If you’re already a climber going out on frequent mountain expeditions, the answer will probably be “yes.”

If you’re more of a hiker or looking for something for camping, you might want a jacket that’s a bit longer and has a different pocket placement for more comfort. The Zeta jacket line is more affordable and designed with hiking in mind. Then there is the Beta line, which is a more well-rounded jacket for mountaineering, hiking, and some climbing.

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Takeaway

Since it’s designed with the specific intended use of climbing and mountaineering, it’s probably going to be a hit or miss in terms of whether it’s functional for your lifestyle. However, if you are in the market for a climbing-specific shell, it’s near impossible to find a better jacket than the Arc’teryx Alpha AR. We’ve tried many hardshell jackets, and our favorites are almost all from Arc’teryx.

Keep in mind that although it’s an upfront investment, the superior quality and durability of the Arc’teryx Alpha AR can more than pay off in the long run, not only with comfort but also since it’s designed to last for many years of use.

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Final Overview of Arc’teryx Alpha AR

Quick Specs: Price – $599 | Weight – 12 oz. | Materials – N40D Gore-Tex Pro